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When words savor food

There exists a place, in Italy, where alimentary culture is not just transmitted through university lecture halls and lessons of alimentary communications, but are explored and revealed inside a laboratory dedicated to the practice of consuming food and the ways of communicating which touch on various fields of gastronomy. This is the laboratory of Communications at the University of Science Gastronomic Studies , with a site at Pollenzo (near Bra, in Piedmont), directed by Pierluigi Basso, responsible for the areas of ‘communication, semantics and perceptions’, lecturer of Alimentary Communications and Cultural Semantics. Full Story

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Waiter a “porterhouse” for two

If New York is by now the Big Apple for everyone, for every good visitor of Steak Houses, Manhattan can call itself (not just for its geographical shape) the Big Steak. Under the blue and white tile covered arches, originally designed for the elegant lunch room of the ex Vanderbilt hotel, opened in 2004 one of the many New York temples to steak: Wolfgang’s Steak House.
At number 4 Park Avenue, after 40 years of service as waiter at the celebrated Peter Luger of Williamsburg, Wolfgang Zwiener German immigrant, decided to gamble on himself, renewing the myth of the American dream, and with other partners, amongst those Peter’s son, he went into business for himself deliberately taking on the responsibility to attend to the integrity of the cardiovascular apparatus of his clients. Contrary to Peter Luger, Wolfgang has tried to offer a gastronomic harbor acceptable for those who desire to consume the finest seafood, from 3 pound lobsters, to raw tuna and wild salmon. It’s not a mystery, when, one of the objectives of Wolfgang Zwiener is also to increase the number of female clients, usually slightly reluctant to enter the classic atmosphere of the Steak Houses. Maybe this was the reason the service was attentive and aware (although not zealous).
We put our arteries to the umpteenth hand to hand combat with cholesterol on a sweet September evening, a table for two unexpectedly available after the obligatory phone call made only the previous evening (usually you have to call a week in advance) .
The reservation was for 8.30. We sat down at nearly 9 with two excellent martinis (Tan query gin, olive, a squeeze of lemon zest) already fully ingested (not the bill: $30 tip included).
The choice goes with out saying, even if the menu offered filet mignon, NY Sirloin, Rib-eye steak and lamb chops: steak for two (the porterhouse in varying thicknesses comes prepared for two, three and for four), Jumbo baked potato and a Californian Cabernet Sauvignon chosen from a good wine list with predominately USA wines and at an acceptable price of $59.
The steak was served already sliced on a hot plate and sizzling melted butter. We had asked for “rare” but it arrived “medium”, however delicious. A Short Loins from the Midwest classified Prime by the Department of Agriculture. From the brilliant red color, perfectly veined with fat and tenderized for three weeks in a controlled climate and humidity, cooked at a high temperature. Flavored and tasty, accompanied by freshly milled black pepper, it fully satisfied our bloodthirsty instincts. Instincts that all in all remained satisfied at the presentation of the bill, slightly lower in respect to other experiences in the city even though it was (for two) $150 (not including tip) which would have been more than $170 with the addition of two salads (the choice is good). For the finale, don’t taste but experience the Cheesecake. If you think then that Wolfgang Zwiener has learned bad habits from Peter Luger, don’t worry, here you pay with credit card.

Wolfgang’s Steakhouse
4 Park Avenue (33rd Street)
+ 1 212 8893369
www.wolfgangssteakhouse.com

Setting: Beautiful room with a low arched ceiling decorated with white and blue tiles.
Service: Attentive and efficient
Wine List: A wide range with the emphasis on Californian wines. Current and good but need to increase the number of bottles under $70
Prices: Starters from $ 8 to $ 18; Main Courses from $28 to $38; Dessert $8
Opening hours: Monday-Thursday 12am-10pm. Friday 12am-11pm. Saturday 5pm-11pm. Sunday closed
Bookings: Telephone a week in advance. It’s not possible to book on-line.
Credit Cards: all major cards